When we think of Korean food, kimchi and gochujang undoubtedly come into mind as irreplaceable staples of Korean cuisine. Yet the little known truth is that go-chu, the Korean chili pepper, is a fairly recent development; kimchi, a food that we associate with its vibrant, spicy red, initially came in blander hues of yellow, white, and green.
Having originated in the Americas, the red pepper has been consumed by the residents of Mexico as early as 7000 BC. Over time, its production spread through the rest of the Americas and were used in several different ways, such as acting as a means to torture criminals. Additionally, the Incas, Mayans, and Aztecs would also apply it to arrowheads as a poison. Yet it also had innocuous uses. For instance, red peppers could be used as a disinfectant.
When Christopher Columbus arrived in the Americas, he was one of the first Europeans to encounter the red pepper. He returned to Spain in 1493 with the red pepper, subsequently dubbing it the “West Indian pepper” due to the initial misconception that he had landed in Asia. The red pepper became a valuable commodity in Europe as it was thought to improve health, a belief supported by the fact that the spicy flavor was warming during winters.
The red pepper gradually grew popular in various regions of Europe and was consumed in a variety of ways; the Spanish used to enhance the flavor of the also newly imported tomatoes while in France, it supplemented the flavor of vinegar. Interestingly, red peppers were also used as ornamental decorations in botanical gardens in many parts of early modern Europe, causing the Italians to nickname it “corne de corail,” or “coral egg.” Nicolás Bautista Monardes, a Spanish physician and botanist, exalted the red pepper: “It is so effective that it is known throughout Spain.” With its myriad of uses, it was a valuable commodity.
However, there were already similar spices that could produce a spicy taste, and the red pepper was excessively imported between Europe and the Americas. Thus, the red pepper lost its monetary value, and European merchants turned to Africa and Asia, allowing red pepper variations to migrate to Joseon, Korea, during the Japanese invasions. For this reason, they were called Goryeohochu (高麗胡椒).
Despite their immense popularity today, the go-chu was slow to gain prominence, as people were content with the variety of spices already available to them. There was no point in replacing an already perfected method. Additionally, the economic hardships that ensued after the Japanese invasions delayed the development of a strong interest in go-chu. However, after the Joseon economy recovered in the 18th century, the go-chu soon won its way into the people’s hearts, and their initial inventory of spices, extending from wild chives and garlic to green onions and ginger, came to include the go-chu. Since then, the use of red pepper has gradually increased, and it was firmly established as an ingredient for kimchi.
Originally made from the two common ingredients of radish and eggplant rather than cabbage as it is now, kimchi seasoning included pasqueflower, ginger, and garlic. However, after go-chu entered the spice mix, cabbage was recognized as the superior ingredient to pair the seasoning with, and the new vegetable quickly became the norm for what is now one of Korea’s most beloved dishes.
Though one of go-chu’s first uses was in kimchi-making, it also came to be included in people’s daily lives. “There is probably no place like Joseon where red pepper powder is used as much in ordinary households in the morning and evening,” Dr. Jeong Gu-chung (鄭求忠) wrote on June 20, 1933. “All side dishes that are common at home are seasoned with red pepper, and the original taste of the food is changed to the taste of red pepper powder. It is no exaggeration to say that there is no food that does not contain red pepper powder.”
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